My PC is Dead.

wd40

Hi All.

My 5 Years old core 2 quad PC died last week, absoloutly no response so I thought it could be the Power Supply.
I tested the power supply with a tester and it passed, to confirm I took the PSU to the computer shop and they confirmed it works.

So, I decided to get the following:
Intel Core i7-4770K Quad-Core Desktop Processor.
ASUS Z87-EXPERT MotherBoard.
Mushkin Enhanced 4 x 8 GB DDR3-1600 CL9.
Mushkin Chronos Deluxe 120 GB SATA 6.0 Gb-s 2.5-Inch Solid State Drive.
at a total cost of ~ 1,000 US$.

I come back home and put everything together, still the new setup will not work
The motherboard have a small power button that shows that the motherboard have power, and if you push it it should start the pc, I pushed it, still nothing.

now, we have a public holiday which means the shop will only open on Sunday.
I am stuck with a PC that does not work untill then, any ideas on what could be the problem? is there feedback that goes to the PSU to tell it to start working?

NotHackingYou

Does it beep? Does the PSU fan turn on? Do any other fans turn on?

wd40

No beeps and no fans.
Just the power light on the motherboard.

CodeBlox

I know that motherboards these days come with the 20+4-pin power and an additional 4-pin power... Do you have both of them plugged into a cable on your power supply?

wd40

Yes, I have the 20 + 4 connector and the 4 + 4 connector pluged in ( I think theses are for the cpu).

KeithC

Sounds likely your issue is with the power button itself. Guessing you are using the same case?

wd40

The power button was the first thing that I checked, it was good.
And as I said the new mobo has a built in power button which shows that the mother board has power.

MickQ

Bring it back to minimum parts installed.
Disconnect the drives and anything else except for the RAM and video card. Test.
If that doesn't change anything, take out the video card. Test.
If that doesn't change anything, insert the video card and take out the RAM. Test.

Edit: Are you sure the power button on the case works? You can short the power button pins on the motherboard using a small screwdriver to simulate a button push.

CodeBlox

So what items are you using from the old PC?

wd40

The power button built in the motherboard eleminates the need for the case power button.

I am using the case and psu from the old system.
I have the ram and cpu only on the motherboard.
......

I wanted to upgrade my system when the first core I 7 was released, so even if the problem is with psu I have no problem, this upgrade is 3 core generations late .

KeithC

Well then it's either a dud component you just bought or the . . . . reused PSU. Try a new power supply and if that's not it then at least you can return it.

Plantwiz

Do you have a multimeter to test your voltage and ohms? And you positive the plug (power outlet) has power?
Does yours PS have a rocker switch on the back, is it on? Is the PS set for the correct volts for u
Your region?

Short of the obvious physical installation problems (something not plugged in or seated correctly) as well as the environment you are set up, is their proper power? Youu could have a component that is conflicting with the circuit creating an open.

If you do not have a multimeter or are unfamiliar with how to use one, then take your parts in to have them tested.

Otherwise, the basic thing to do is take the components our and test them on a static free table, to ensure the Mobo is not touching anything and plug in the PS, one stick of working RAM, the CPU and the PS. If you cannot get it to work without it sitting in the chassis or are unfamilar with this step, take the parts in.

I have literally assembled, disassembled, handled thousands of PCs and PCs components in my tenure. The folks who have asked you to test the board without the start button are trying to assist you in to removing another variable that is failing or failed.

Unplug EVERYTHING even if you are positive it is plugged in correctly, it may not be seated properly and leaving an open in your setup.

Short of this, I would be looking at the chassis for anything touching the MOBO, the PS as there may be a problem with (so an independent test may be in order) or a component not seated properly.


EDIT - you tested the PS per your original post. So do you have a different PS to test with? And what is plugged in the backside of the Mobo? Should be nothing my this point, no network cable, no USB devices, etcc..

wd40

- I tested the switch with a multimeter and it works + the power switch on the mobo that can start the PC should also work.
- I tested the psu with a psu tester + multimeter + the people in the shop tested it and the power led on the mobo indecate it is working; I am getting clean 5V ad 12V.
- 2 different mobos with different components.
- The case is not touching any part on the mobo.
- Nothing is connected to the PC other than the power cable.
- Worst thing is I will only be able to take it to the shop on Sunday, for now I have to work on my son's PC or on the tiny telephone screen .

Asif Dasl

That RAM you have is not on the supported memory configuration list on Asus's website. When you max out a board it's important to check the components are compatible, that's probably your problem.

wd40

You are correct, it is not on the list.
But even when I removed the RAM still not a single beep from the PC.

Asif Dasl

Try 2 sticks of RAM in slots 1 & 3 or 2 & 4 - they should be the same colour slots. You sometimes don't get a beep when there is no RAM or incompatible RAM. Other than that it's probably return the RAM for compatible RAM like Corsair CMZ16GX3M2A1600C10 or GSkill F3-1600C9Q-32GXM

ptilsen

Unless the PSU has actually worked on a different setup since the first one blew up, it would still be my number 1 suspect. Nothing short of a booted system is a sufficient test. I don't get the multimeter out unless I suspect voltage sags on a specific rail or something of that nature. Your old system could have multiple broken components and none of them are suitable for testing. I cannot stress enough that nothing short of a known working motherboard is a comprehensive test for whether the PSU will work.

If the PSU is definitely good, number 2 suspect would be the power button jumpers. You could have the jumper wrong but still get a light on the motherboard or case power indicator. Double and triple check your work there.

Otherwise, I would suspect something with the motherboard. It could be dead on arrival or installed improperly in the case, causing a short. Worth removing from the case for testing.

I would not waste time with RAM or other components unless you aren't confident you would be able to hear POST beeps. I have never seen nor heard of a motherboard that wouldn't give POST beeps for RAM problems. It should still give beeps if you start it without RAM at all.

Asif Dasl

ptilsen wrote: »

I would not waste time with RAM or other components unless you aren't confident you would be able to hear POST beeps. I have never seen nor heard of a motherboard that wouldn't give POST beeps for RAM problems. It should still give beeps if you start it without RAM at all.

I've 2 Asus boards that do not beep without RAM. Just saying.

Edit - In my case I think I need a 4 pin speaker to hear the beeps. I could be wrong it's a while since I touch them since I got new boards.

ptilsen

Asif Dasl wrote: »

Edit - In my case I think I need a 4 pin speaker to hear the beeps.

Precisely. If OP doesn't have a speaker hooked up, that would qualify as not "confident you would be able to hear POST beeps." I've never seen one with a speaker not beep for RAM issues, Asus or otherwise.

Of course the speaker could be broken, so I guess there's nothing to be confident in at this point.

Asif Dasl

Well just for fun I pulled the RAM out of my Asus M5A97 R2.0 and it doesn't beep or anything, so thats 4 motherboards I own that don't beep without RAM... All Asus

ptilsen

Interesting. So nothing at all if you have a working speaker hooked up and pull the RAM?

Well, it may be worth a shot for OP in that case to at least try different RAM configurations. I would suspect at least having brand new RAM plugged in would lead to beeps if its incompatible.

Plantwiz

At least one stick of good working ram will be needed to test. Whether or not you pair it, only has to be paired to a minimum amount, not a max.

Do you have any other pS in the area you ca borrow to test this out? I have seen PS slowly fail and will test fine, but eventually give out. The only thing you have plugged in is the PS to the board correct?

What made you initially think the PS failed? I see you stated you had it tested, but why was that your first thought? Power surge or something? As mentioned, I have seen a PS fail but read fine on a test...simply because it is never maxed out on a multimeter like it is on a full PC.

Did the 120v/240v switch get bumped on the read of the power supply?
CPU and heat sink are fastened correctly?
One stick or one pair of sticks of ram installed into the dimms correctly?

If you can borrow a PS from another machine (friend, neighbor, etc..) I would recommend it. You are looking only to test POST, not get it all up an running. If with the borrowed PS you have a POST, then you have your answer.

Pretty much at a board swap state without seeing it.

Asif Dasl

@ptilsen - No no, I don't have a speaker hooked up to it - an the OP probably doesn't either. It never came with one and even higher end boards I've never seen them come with one. And I've got a Corsair 600T case and it didn't come with one either. You have to buy them seperately.

wd40

The battery on my wife's car died in the morning, so when my PC refused to start later in the day I subconsciously assumed that it is a power issue .
may be a single pin on the 24 or 8 pin power connectors is faulty? - Power rating is correct.

I can not borrow any components, people do not buy PC's any more , all the PC's that I know of are at least 3 years old and use cheap 15$ PSU's which I am 100% sure will not be compatible with this mobo.

The mobo has a 2 digit LED display that will give error codes, so no need for beeps, the code should tell me which component is faulty or missing.

ptilsen

@Asif, right, but cases traditionally have them. That's why I mean. But since OP's case is even in question (a blown PSU could absolutely blow a case speaker) IMO, I'm conceding that even POST beeps aren't reliable at this point.

@wd40, sounds like you're in a tough position. I am in agreement with Plantwiz. You need a board/PSU swap to really test this. PSU is a likely culprit even if the only reason you thought of it was a subconscious connection to something unrelated. When a PC up and dies in the manner you've described, it's generally either PSU, motherboard, or both. Since the new PC still has issues and the PSU is the component that was carried over, it still seems likely.

Asif Dasl

When I pulled the RAM out of my board the fans still powered up so you could be right ptilsen/Plantwiz. But even if it is the PSU you might have some issues with the RAM for 32GB.

Plantwiz

While the more recent PC will have (or may have) cheaper PS in them, I highly doubt any, unless older than five years-seven years are without the 20+4. There were adapters in the day to "convert" or I should say bridge the two era of PS between the boards. Would not recommend it for over clocking, but again, looking to post. I will see if I can dig up an image...

And if you can find a box, (someone must have at least one) ideally, you want to borrow theirs to see if yours powers up to a post, not necessarily install theirs into yours or your PS into their equipment. It is a cumbersome process but easily done. If not, today is Friday already, Sunday will be here soon enough.

wd40

The 20+4 connector will be there on older psus but cheaper psu's will not have an 8 pin connector which I need to power my motherboard, the will have the standard 4 pin connector only.
But as you said I can test my psu on older machines.

This is a holidays season for us, so I think I will just wait until sunday and take it to the shop.

Plantwiz

This will not help you tonight, but for reference:
StarTech.com 4 Pin to 8 Pin EPS Power with LP4 Cable Adapter Power adapter - power 4 pin ATX2V connector - F - 4 pin internal power - M power 8 pin EPS2V - M - 6 in - PC

And IIRC, you should be able to power up to POST even without the 8 pin, simply connect one four pin and the 24 (20+4)... Though it will depend on the PS you stumble upon. It has been a while, but I seem to recall reading that the 8 pin can be skipped (short term) so long the PC is not being Overclocked...I am going to have to dig for that one as that would have been a white paper a while back...



EDIT - and what Gc are you using? ON board or separate card? (I will go back and read the first post again). You may have a bad card...but that you may just have more thn one thing that is causing all this heartache...PS, possible fault new Mobo, GC, RAM, yep, any one of those or all of them.

I am sure looking forward to your post when you reply, "hey, it was xxxx!" If you were near me, I would let you borrow my spare part box

tpatt100

I rebuilt my PC recently and didn't have too many issues but after so many years of buying when I got sick of building I did have to read up on the changes to motherboards lol.

wd40

It was the power supply, it will pass the test but can not power a PC.
The mother board beeps when it start, I have a speaker in my case.

So, now I need a new case and power supply and I will have a good backup machine .

Thanks all for your help